Extension Communications Extension 4-H Youth Building Ames, Iowa 50011-3630 (515) 294-9915

9/20/04

Contacts:
James Romer, Horticulture, (515) 294-2336, jromer@iastate.edu
Jean McGuire, Continuing Education and Communication Services, (515) 294-7033, jmcguire@iastate.edu

Yard and Garden Column for the Week Beginning Sept. 24, 2004

Dr. Grow-It-All Strikes Again!

By James Romer
Horticulture Specialist
Iowa State University Extension

Dear Dr. Grow-It-All;
Two years ago I came home and found that a honey locust had been planted in my front yard along my driveway as a surprise for my birthday. It looked great! In fact, it must have been an excellent location for the tree because now I can hardly get the car up the driveway. It has such a nice shape; I don't want to prune it. I would like to move it, but I don't know how to get it done. A friend of mine suggested that I write and get your ideas. Are there standards as to how big the rootball should be or does it matter?
Branching Out in Lone Tree

Dear Branching Out;
Transplanting a tree becomes more difficult as it grows in size. Fall (after leaf drop) and early spring (before leaves emerge) are the best times to transplant deciduous trees. Yes, there are standards for how large the size of the rootball should be. The radius of the rootball should be 8 to 12 inches for each inch of trunk diameter at chest height. Trees with a trunk diameter greater than 2 inches should be left to professionals with a tree spade. It's imperative that the soil ball is kept intact as the tree is dug and transplanted to the new site. It can be watered until the ground freezes.

Dear Dr. Grow-It-All,
Where has the summer gone? It seemed like yesterday the tulips were in bloom and I was anticipating the growing season. I had high expectations for all of my plants around the house I moved into a couple years ago. There are two large yews in my front yard. I passed them every day. With every day they kept getting larger and larger. I had every intention of finding the hedge trimmer and pruning those behemoths, but I just didn't get around to it. Dr. Grow-It-All, you may not believe it, but I am a member of Procrastinators Anonymous. I never make it to the meetings, but I hope to someday. Am I too late to prune my shrubs? Should I give them a shot of fertilizer as well if I cut part of the plant off?
Best Intentions in Imogene

Dear Best Intentions;
The new shoots that stick well above the rest of the shrub can be pruned off in late summer. However, do not prune back into the older growth at this time. More extensive pruning can be done in early spring (early to mid-April) before growth begins. Afterwards, prune the yews regularly to contain their size.
Do not fertilize the yews in late summer. Fertilizing in late summer may promote new growth, which won't have adequate time to harden before winter. As a consequence, the new growth may suffer severe winter injury. Now you can make that Procrastinators Anonymous meeting due to the extra time you have by not pruning greatly or fertilizing.

Dear Dr. Grow-It-All,
I had the best strawberries. In fact, I just gained another pound just thinking about all the juicy sweet berries with shortcake and whipped cream. I'm sorry, I tend to ramble. Anyway, I really want to do what's best for the plants now so that they can produce another great crop next year. I can hardly wait to get back out there and bite into those strawberries dripping with flavor. Recently, a friend told me I should mow my strawberries off. Should I crank up the lawn mower and do that now?
Getting To It in Strawberry Point

Dear Getting To It;
Strawberry plants should not be mowed off in late summer. The foliage of June-bearing strawberries should be mowed off within one week of the last harvest. This is normally late June or early July in Iowa. Fertilization is the next step in the renovation process. Apply 5 pounds of all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, per 100 feet of row. If the plants have sent runners out into the aisles and new daughter plants have started, now is an excellent time to till new rows into the planting area. Do not fertilize at this time. The plants need to start slowing down and getting ready for the colder months that lie just around the corner. Purchase straw or other protective mulch to place over the top of your plants. Wait until the middle November to apply the mulch to your beds. A few maintenance steps this fall will yield great results next spring and summer. And save a piece of strawberry shortcake for me!

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Editors: There is no photo for this week's column.

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