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Extension Communications |
12/6/04
Contacts:
Cindy Haynes, Horticulture, (515) 294-4006, chaynes@iastate.edu
Jean McGuire, Continuing Education and Communication Services, (515) 294-7033,
jmcguire@iastate.edu
Garden column for the week of Dec. 10, 2004
Amaryllis: A Great Holiday Gift Idea
Cindy Haynes
Horticulture Specialist
Iowa State University Extension
'Tis the season of gift giving. For a different gift this year, consider an amaryllis bulb. This is a great gift for almost anyone -- green thumb gardeners and the not-so-green thumb gardeners. Amaryllis is a wonderful flowering bulb that is easy to grow and maintain. It is also a gift that with the proper care will bloom year after year, always reminding the lucky recipient of your thoughtfulness. The best part for those on a budget is that this gift shouldn't cost more than 20 bucks.
Amaryllis is a tropical bulb from South America that has large, brightly colored lily-like flowers in winter. Flower colors include red, pink, peach, white, bicolor (red and white combined) and even greenish. Flowers range in size from 5 to 10 inches in diameter and can be single, double, or split (butterfly). Flower clusters appear atop stout 12-24 inch stems. The leaves are thick, strap-like and a nice bright green color.
It is easy to get amaryllis to grow and bloom indoors. Unlike tulips and daffodils, amaryllis bulbs don't require a chilling period to force into bloom. They also can be forced into bloom year after year - you could never do this with a tulip.
Take a visit to your local garden center or nursery for a selection of amaryllis bulbs. Pick bulbs that are firm and free of any blemishes. This is a time where size matters - the bigger the bulb the better the flower. Sometimes large bulbs will produce a couple of flowering stems. So look for the big ones.
After selecting the bulb, find a pretty container for it. The container should only be slightly larger than the bulb. Plant the bulb in the container with the top third of the bulb exposed above the soil line. Water the soil well until water drains out the bottom of the container. Place container in a sunny window and water sparingly until the green shoots appear. It may take a couple of weeks for the first shoots to appear. After growth begins, water as the soil dries out. Be careful not to overwater! About six to eight weeks after planting, the bulb should be in full bloom.
For those really large blooms, you may need to have a stake handy to support the weight of the flowers. Once blooming begins, keep plants in a cool location (60 to 70 degrees F) for best bloom longevity. When the flowers fade, cut the stalk back to the top of the bulb. Be careful not to injure the leaves. They are very important for next year's flowers.
When only the leaves are left, continue to water the bulb when the soil dries out. Keep the leaves and bulb alive until the plants can be taken outside after the threat of frost has passed in the spring. Find a partially shady spot in the garden to sink the pot for the summer. Continue to water as needed. These leaves provide the food reserves for next years flowers, so the healthier the bulb during the growing season, the better likelihood for beautiful flowers next year. Fertilize the bulb occasionally with a complete fertilizer.
In September, lift the pot from the soil and bring the containers indoors. If the leaves are still green, allow the bulb to dry out. This will force the leaves to turn yellow and the bulb will enter dormancy. Remove the dried leaves and place the container and bulb in a cool, dark location for a couple of months. Check the bulb periodically for new growth. After new growth appears or after two or three months of resting, repot the bulb into fresh soil, water, and place in a sunny location. Then the whole forcing process starts over again, culminating with new blooms for the New Year.
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ml: isugarden