Extension Communications
3614 Administrative Services Building
Ames, Iowa 50011-3614
(515) 294-9915

12/21/98

Contacts:
Cynthia Haynes, Extension Horticulture, (515) 294-2751
Elaine Edwards, Extension Communication Systems, (515) 294-5168

Yard and Garden Column for the Week Beginning Dec. 25.

Post Holiday Cleanup Options

By Cynthia Haynes
Extension horticulturist
Iowa State University

For many of us the holiday season would not be the same without a fresh Christmas tree, a few brightly colored poinsettias, a striking holiday cactus, an elegant amaryllis and a welcoming wreath on the door. While these Yuletide symbols add cheer to the season they can create a little post-holiday stress in figuring out how to dispose or care for them. But don't fret, the plants will thrive with good, consistent care, and there are several uses for the cut Christmas tree and other greenery.

After all the ornaments and tinsel are removed, the Christmas tree can be chipped and used as mulch around trees, shrubs or flowers. Another option is to prune off the evergreen boughs and use them as mulch for the perennial garden. If this sounds like too much work for you, most communities have a Christmas tree recycling program with drop off locations or curbside collection of trees after the holidays. Local conservation organizations, such as hunting and fishing clubs, are other possibilities. Some of these groups collect trees to provide habitat for fish and wildlife.

Live Christmas trees (those growing in containers) require a different approach. After removing all the ornaments, place your tree in a cool but not freezing location like the garage. The tree must acclimate gradually to the cooler outdoor temperatures. Do not allow the root ball to freeze during this period. On a relatively mild winter day, plant the tree outdoors in a previously selected and prepared site. Water, then mulch the area heavily to prevent the soil from freezing immediately.

For the other evergreen materials like wreaths and garland, simply remove the wire and the bow. Save the frame and bow for use next year. The evergreen twigs can be composted or mulched.

The poinsettia, holiday cactus and amaryllis can be kept from one holiday to the next with proper care. All of these plants should be placed in a sunny window and watered as needed. Keep them in a warm location (60-70 degrees F) and away from hot or cold drafts during the winter. Fertilize lightly every two to four weeks. Remove any spent flowers on the holiday cactus or amaryllis. Do not damage the strap-like leaves on the amaryllis. The foliage is needed to replenish its depleted food reserves. In late winter or early spring, the poinsettia can be cut back to 4 to 6 inches above the soil surface to promote new growth.

In spring after the danger of frost has passed the plants can be moved outdoors. This is also the best time to repot the poinsettia or holiday cactus into a larger pot if needed. Acclimate the plants to their new surroundings by gradually increasing their exposure outdoors over a one or two week period. Their final garden site should receive several hours of sun, preferably morning rather than afternoon sun.

Continue to water and fertilize the plants on a regular basis while outdoors. When brought indoors in the fall, place them in a sunny window to prevent leaf drop.

Amaryllis bulbs require a two to three month rest period before reblooming. Dormancy is normally induced in late September by placing the plant in a cool (40-50 degrees F), semi-dark location and allowing the plant to dry out gradually. The foliage is removed as it turns brown and dies. The amaryllis should not be watered or fertilized during this time. After the bulb has rested for one or two months, periodically check it for new growth signs. When a bud or foliage begins to appear, return the plant to a warm, sunny location and water it to encourage new growth. If needed, repot the bulb before watering. Strong, healthy bulbs will produce one to two flower stalks while weak ones will only produce foliage.

Several weeks of short days (i.e., long nights) are required to force poinsettias and holiday cacti into bloom. Beginning in early to mid October, they should be placed in complete darkness from 5 p.m. until 8 a.m. each day. Plants should receive bright light during the remainder of the day. Continue this procedure for six to eight weeks. Exposing poinsettias and holiday cacti to light during the dark period will delay flowering. Indoor temperatures should be 65 to 75 degree F for the poinsettia and 60 to 65 degrees F for the holiday cactus. Water the poinsettia when the soil surface becomes dry to the touch. Holiday cactus prefers slightly drier conditions. The poinsettias and holiday cacti will reward your diligence with signs of blooms or color by the beginning of December.

While home gardeners can get these plants to bloom again for the next holiday season, it's difficult to achieve the same quality as greenhouse-grown plants. However, if you want to eliminate this hassle as well, you can compost those flowering plants in February and purchase new ones next year. I'm sure your local garden centers wouldn't mind one bit.

-30-

ml: isugarden


Extension programs are available to all without regard to race, color, national origin, religion, sex, age, or disability.

News Menu | ISU Extension