How do you renovate June-bearing strawberries? 

A June-bearing strawberry planting can be productive for four to five years if the bed is given good care. One important task is to renovate June-bearing strawberries immediately after harvest. The renovation process involves leaf removal, creation of 8-inch-wide plant strips, and fertilization.  After the initial renovation steps have been completed, irrigation and weed control are necessary throughout the remainder of the growing season. 

Start the renovation of June-bearing strawberries by mowing off the leaves 1 inch above the crowns of the plants with a rotary mower within 1 week of the last harvest.  (Do not mow the strawberry bed after this one week period as later mowing destroys new leaf growth.)  To aid in disease control, rake and remove the plant debris. 

June-bearing strawberries grown in 2-foot-wide, matted rows should be narrowed to 8-inch-wide strips with a rototiller or hoe. When selecting the part of the row to keep, try to save the younger plants and remove the older plants. If the strawberry planting has been allowed to become a solid mat, renovate the bed by creating 8-inch-wide plant strips. Space the plant strips about 3 feet apart. 

Fertilization is the next step in renovation. Apply approximately 5 pounds of 10-10-10 or a similar analysis fertilizer per 100 feet of row to encourage plant growth and development. 

Water the strawberry plants during dry weather. Strawberries require 1 inch of water per week for adequate growth. Irrigate the planting during dry summer weather to insure optimum production next season. Irrigation during the summer months encourages runner formation and flower bud development.  (The flower buds on June-bearing strawberries develop in late summer and early fall.) Control weeds in the strawberry planting with shallow cultivation and hand pulling. 

Some June-bearing strawberry varieties are extremely vigorous, producing runners beyond the 2-foot-wide, matted row. These runners should be placed back within the 2-foot row or removed to prevent the planting from becoming a solid mat of plants. 

When and how do you divide bearded irises? 

While bearded irises are easy-to-grow perennials, they need to be divided every three to five years. If not divided, plants become overcrowded and flower production decreases. Crowded plants are also more prone to disease problems. In Iowa, the best time to dig, divide and transplant bearded irises is in July and August. 

Bearded irises grow from thick, underground stems called rhizomes. Carefully dig up the iris clumps with a spade.  Cut back the leaves to one third their original height. Wash the soil from the rhizomes and roots with a steady stream of water.  Then cut the rhizomes apart with a sharp knife.  Each division should have a fan of leaves, a healthy rhizome, and several large roots.  Discard all diseased or insect damaged rhizomes. 

Bearded irises perform best in fertile, well-drained soils and full sun.  In clay soils, incorporate compost, peat or well-rotted manure into the soil prior to planting.  When planting bearded irises, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the rhizome and roots. Build a mound in the center of the hole.  Place a rhizome on top of the mound and spread the roots in the surrounding trench.  Then cover with soil.  When planted, the rhizome should be just below the soil surface. Finally, water each plant thoroughly. 

To obtain a good flower display, plant at least three rhizomes of one variety in a group. Space the rhizomes about 12 to 24 inches apart. 

When should I harvest broccoli? 

Broccoli should be harvested when the head is fully developed, but before the flower buds begin to turn yellow and open.  At harvest, the terminal head should be tight, blue-green and approximately 6 to 7 inches in diameter. Most broccoli varieties will develop several side heads (about 1 to 3 inches across) in the axils of the leaves after the central head is harvested. 

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