Some of the leaves on my bee balms are covered with a grayish white “powder.”  What is the problem? 

The symptoms on your bee balms (Monarda spp.) are most likely due to powdery mildew.  Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease on bee balms. Symptoms are most severe on overcrowded plants and those growing in partial shade. 

Cultural practices can reduce the severity of powdery mildew. When planting bee balms, select a site in full sun and space plants 2 to 2.5 feet apart.  Move plants growing in partial shade to a sunny location. Divide bee balms every two to three years to prevent overcrowding. Remove and destroy disease-infested plant debris in fall.  If cultural practices fail, fungicides can also be used to control powdery mildew. 

Probably the best way for home gardeners to avoid the annoying problem of powdery mildew is to select and plant mildew resistant varieties. Varieties that possess good to excellent resistance to powdery mildew include ‘Marshall’s Delight’ (bright pink flowers), ‘Gardenview Scarlet’ (scarlet red flowers), ‘Violet Queen’ (lavender blue flowers), and ‘Raspberry Wine’ (wine red flowers). 

What is the proper way to deadhead roses? 

Deadheading or the removal of faded flowers is done to encourage additional bloom on hybrid tea and other repeat-flowering roses. Hybrid tea roses usually have one or two three-leaflet leaves immediately below the flower. Next (lower down on the stem) are two or more five-leaflet leaves.  The deadheading procedure is slightly different for newly planted and established roses. 

During their first growing season, it’s usually recommended that the spent flower be removed above the uppermost three-leaflet leaf. Removal of a larger percentage of the rose’s foliage reduces the plant’s ability to manufacture food and slows growth. When deadheading established roses, the stem may be cut back to a five-leaflet leaf.  Retain at least two five-leaflet leaves on each shoot.  Use sharp tools (hand shears or knife) to remove faded flowers. Cut about 0.25 inch above an outward facing bud and leaflet with the cut made parallel to the angle of the leaflet. 

When should I harvest okra? 

Harvest pods when 2 to 4 inches long. (This is usually 5 to 6 days after flowering.) Use a sharp knife or hand shears. Handle the pods carefully, as they bruise easily. Since the pods develop rapidly, it’s often necessary to harvest pods every other day in July and August. 

Pods that are more than 5 inches in length become tough and stringy. While the larger pods are still edible, their quality is usually considered unacceptable. Pods that have become too large to use should be promptly picked and discarded. Pods that are allowed to mature on the plant will reduce additional flowering and fruiting. 

Some individuals are sensitive to the small spines on the okra’s leaves and stems and may develop a rash or itch. Sensitive individuals should wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt when harvesting the pods.

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