What is the proper way to divide peonies? 

September is the best time to divide peonies. By September, peony plants have been able to store adequate food reserves in their roots. Also, the replanted divisions have several weeks to get reestablished at their new site before the onset of winter. 

When dividing peonies, cut the stems near ground level. Carefully dig up the plants and wash or gently shake off the soil. Divide the clump into sections making sure that each section has three to five buds (eyes) and a portion of the root system.  Divisions with fewer than three buds may take three or more years to produce flowers. 

Prepare the site by digging a hole 1 to 1.5 feet deep and 1.5 to 2 feet across.  Mix compost or peat moss into the soil.  Also, add 1/4 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer to one-half of the amended soil.  Place the fertilized soil mix in the bottom of the hole. 

When planting, position the peonies so that the buds are 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface.  Planting too deeply will inhibit flowering.  Fill the remainder of the hole with soil amended with compost or peat moss and water thoroughly. Water regularly during the first fall and spring of establishment. 

Mulch newly planted peonies with several inches of straw or pine needles in late fall. Mulching will prevent repeated freezing and thawing of the soil that may heave and damage young plants.  Remove the mulch as growth resumes in the spring. 

How do you force spring-flowering bulbs indoors? 

Spring-flowering bulbs that can be forced indoors include tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses. While many bulb varieties can be forced, best results are obtained by selecting varieties recommended for forcing. To enjoy spring-flowering bulbs in winter, gardeners must begin the forcing process in late summer or early fall. Gardeners need good quality bulbs, a well-drained potting mix, and containers with drainage holes in the bottom. 

Begin by partially filling the container (pot) with potting soil. Then place the bulbs on the soil surface.  Adjust the soil level until the tops of the bulbs are even with or slightly below the rim of the container. Place additional potting soil around the bulbs. However, don’t cover the bulbs completely. Allow the tops (noses of the bulbs) to stick above the potting soil. After potting, water each container thoroughly. 

In order to bloom, spring-flowering bulbs must be exposed to temperatures of 40 to 45 degrees F for 12 to 16 weeks. Possible storage sites include the refrigerator, root cellar, or an outdoor trench. During cold storage, water the bulbs regularly and keep them in complete darkness. 

Once the cold requirement has been met, begin to remove the potted bulbs from cold storage.  For a succession of bloom, remove pots from storage at 10 to 14 day intervals. Place the bulbs in a cool (50 to 60 degrees F) location that receives low to medium light. When the bulbs begin to grow, move the plants to a slightly warmer area that receives bright light. Keep the potting soil evenly moist during the forcing period. Flowering should occur in 3 to 4 weeks. 

Do arborvitae have serious insect or disease problems? 

Arborvitae have few insect or disease pests. However, they are not trouble free. Arborvitae are susceptible to winter burn. Wind and sun can dry out the foliage during the winter months. The desiccated foliage turns brown in late winter/early spring. Arborvitae also can be severely damaged by browsing deer. 

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