The sight of new grass growing often inspires the homeowner to run out and spread fertilizer to help the young blades along. Generally, fertilizers are best applied after April1. Be sure to select fertilizers that contain slow release nitrogen sources. These will be listed on the fertilizer bag as sulfur-coated urea, methylene urea, IBDU, triazone, or as a natural organic fertilizer. Do not apply more than one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, five pounds of a 20-5-10 fertilizer are needed to apply one pound of actual nitrogen.
When fertilizing, be sure to remove any fertilizer that was applied to sidewalks or driveways. Fertilizers will run off smooth surfaces very rapidly, while minimal runoff will occur on turfgrass areas. This is an important lawn maintenance practice that can help protect our water resources.
Seeding a new lawn in the spring is possible if done properly. Follow these steps for the best results:
- First, the site needs to be evaluated for the need of soil amendments. Conduct a soil test and incorporate the needed soil amendments.
- Second, the site should be graded to slope away from buildings. Leaving depressions in the lawn will only create future problems.
- Third, select the right seed for the site. If you plan to have a lawn for show, select a seed mix containing improved cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass. Avoid cultivars like ‘Park’ or ‘Nugget’ in these situations. If the site is shady, avoid Kentucky bluegrass and use either a fine leaf fescue or tall fescue.
- Fourth, seed the area according to proper seeding rates. Seed is applied on a 1,000 square foot basis. For example, sow 1.5 pounds of Kentucky bluegrass, six pounds of tall fescue, and three pounds of fine leaf fescue seed per 1,000 square feet. Seed will not germinate until soil temperatures are close to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Therefore, it is best to delay seeding until later in April.
- Fifth, apply a starter fertilizer that contains Tupersan if crabgrass has been a problem in the past. Tupersan is the only preemergent herbicide that can be used at seeding.
- Sixth, protect the seedbed with straw mulch. Apply one bale of weed-free straw per 1,000 square feet. The straw will help prevent erosion and maintain proper moisture for the germinating seed.
- Finally, keep the seedbed moist with frequent light irrigation.
Along with the grass, several undesirables are probably growing in your lawn. The best prevention for a weedy lawn is to provide such great growing conditions that the turf crowds out the weeds. If the weeds are sparse, you could use your early spring energy to hand pull some of those perennial weeds. There are chemicals that can be used if you have more weeds than energy. If you choose to use herbicides, be sure to apply them when they will have maximum impact on the weed population. Follow label directions closely for information on time of application and safety precautions.
Apply preemergent herbicides between the middle of March and the middle of April to control crabgrass. Crabgrass generally emerges about the time of dogwood bloom, and the preemergent herbicides used to control it will not affect crabgrass that is already up and growing.
Do not try to control dandelions or other broadleaf weeds in early spring. These weeds are translocating their carbohydrates upward to the leaves at this time. Herbicide applications will often burn off the shoots but may not kill the root system. In addition, herbicide drift off target to nearby plants is much more apt to occur in early spring. It is often better to wait until late summer or early fall to treat dandelions or other broadleaf weeds.
Thatch control should be considered if the thatch layer is greater than 1/2 inch in depth. Power raking is a mechanical method of thatch control. Power raking can damage the turf and preemergence crabgrass herbicides should be applied after raking and thatch removal. On the other hand, core aerating the lawn will help the thatch to naturally decompose. Aeration is also less damaging to the grass.
If it is still a little early for dethatching and insect control, after taking care of the few necessary lawn chores for early spring, you can relax and save your energy for summer mowing.
When your lawn requires its first cutting, be sure not to cut too short. Mow to about two inches during the spring, then raise the cutting height another half inch when summer arrives. Mow frequently so that no more than one third of the grass blade is removed at one time.
bmr
5/4/2008